Easter Surf

I have surf to report.

Woke up this morning and it was dead calm, headed down to the Pier to check it out – it was “nice”

You can’t beat that feeling of anticipation when driving towards the ocean and when you finally get that glimpse of the water and it’s pumping – it’s the best feeling!!

I have this neat little surf rig (Suzuki van) that just keeps going and going – check out the pic.

Pulled into the car park and there were only a few people out - it looked awesome. I suited up and hit it, got smashed by the shore break and got that great reality check that you get when you haven’t been out for a while and you just know that this is going to be difficult.

But – all that swimming I’ve been doing as well as the triathlons have got my fitness to a level that got me through this. Messing with the shore break which seemed like an eternity, I made it out the back and only then realizing the size that confronted me. Very, very nice and the set waves were overhead with most waves being chest to shoulder high.

Caught plenty of waves and had to retire to the beach buggered. The first 4 or 5 waves were ridden from the outside all the way to the shore break – a long ride seemed like a good idea right up to the point of having to paddle back out. They say - no pain no gain and I really wanted to stay out and enjoy this session to the max. Near the end of the session a local hero joined us in the line up – you know the story, “local surfer done good” – his name is Doug Young, not really a hero as such but he has just returned from Tahiti surfing HUGE Teahupoo (Google it to see him) – it was quite cool to see the guy surf and he has great “mana” in the Brighton surfing community.

Enjoy the pics.