Finally got a surf in this morning – woke up (thanks puppies) just after 6.00am to let the dogs out to do a perimeter search – must keep vigil up on yard invaders of the feline kind. All ok and there was no wind at all and I could hear the surf.
Board in van, wettie and towel to follow and off I go. Sat in the car park for a while to see if either of the 2 guys out were catching anything. They did and that was all the encouragement I needed. I suited up and hit the lineup, spent about 3 hours out and as the tide dropped, it got better and better – so much so the “set” waves were overhead. A very nice surprise indeed!
My first surf of the summer and what a beauty – even got a bit of nose riding in as well.
One thing that I was very chuffed about was my fitness – with doing heaps of swim training for triathlons, I found the paddling around very easy (mental note-must do that next year!!
There is no more good feeling of tired than “surf tired” – my shoulders are a bit sore. BUT the winds have dropped so I’m about to head out again and check the waves – later!
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